Surprise and Warm Lakes, in the Eastern Goat Rocks Wilderness 9/24-26, 2024

Having hiked the west side of the Goat Rocks on several previous occasions, I have long wished to explore the “back” side of these beautiful mountains. With good weather and clean air in the forecast, an opportunity finally presented itself on September 24-26 for a three-day adventure. Two experienced backpackers (Emiko and Abraham) and I made the long drive up from Portland to the Conrad Meadows TH, and headed out across the expansive Conrad Meadows on a pleasant, sunny afternoon. The trail meandered a bit at first, but was in good condition and relatively easy to follow using GAIA-GPS. After about 1.5 miles we entered the forest, crossed a couple of streams on somewhat dilapidated bridges, and eventually climbed up switchbacks to scenic Surprise Lake at 6.7 miles/1300′ from the TH. There, we found ample campsites, and in contrast to the busy west-side camping areas such as Snowgrass Flats, absolutely no one else to be seen! Most of the lake was surrounded by forest, but there were good views of Mt. Curtis Gilbert and its surrounding peaks to be found on the south shore of the lake.

The next morning we awoke to clear skies and set forth to explore Warm Lake and the high country at the foot of the eastern Goat Rocks. After leaving Surprise Lake, the trail ascended through mixed woods and meadows to an unmarked but obvious trail junction about a mile from the lake. We took the left fork and ascended, steeply at times, eventually traversing to the top of a rocky slope where views of the Goat Rocks really began to open up. Continuing on the trail for another 100 yards, a small but obvious trail to the southwest was taken, through patchy woodlands and meadows, to some of the most remarkable scenery I have experienced anywhere in the northwest. Huge, expansive meadows opening up to grand views of the entire Goat Rocks range greeted us, with steep rocky summits and icy glaciers hanging above the abyss. My hiking companions, who have traveled extensively, compared it to being it the Dolomites of Italy.

We made it up to Warm Lake (3 miles/1100′ above Surprise Lake), where we stopped to admire the views and have lunch, not wanting to ever leave this beautiful place. However, the wind picked up and some dark clouds began building above the Goat Rocks crest, so we reluctantly made our way back down to our camp at Surprise Lake, arriving just as the raindrops began to fall. The late afternoon and evening brought us steady rain, lasting until the sky finally cleared somewhere around midnight. We awoke to a starry sky and the sound of two owls hooting in the trees at daybreak, broke camp and made our way back down to the car and the drive home.

I have backpacked for many years, but this adventure turned out to be one of the most remarkable I have ever done. The scenery was unsurpassed, and made all the more remarkable by the absence of the crowds only a few miles away on the west side of the mountains. I hope to repeat this trip again next year, so that others can experience it as well.

Tom Thrall